How to make the perfect plum crumble
First, simply go back in time ten years and plant a plum tree
In order to plant the tree, be financially stable enough to own a house and garden
Cultivate the type of friend who buys you a fruit tree from Aldi as a birthday present
A friend that you fell out with years ago, but who comes to mind every time you reach for a ripe plum
Wait years for the tree to grow, enjoy the pure white blossom each spring
During this time, consult the internet for advice on care of fruit trees
Ignore most of this
Mulch haphazardly, prune erratically, chase pigeons from its branches
Wait for a year of extreme heat, for thousands of solar hours converted to sweet fruit
Branches drooping thick with plums the colour of a bruise
You don’t know how this tree can stand it, but she is magnificent in her abundance
In the mornings the grass beneath her offers a banquet for wasps, ants, slugs
A cocky squirrel grabs one in its front paws and nibbles voraciously
Everyone is feasting on her generosity
And yet, there are still so many
Plums to give away, to make into jam, to simmer lightly in a pan and spoon over breakfast
Finally as the year turns and September is in view, it is time to make crumble
Wash your fruit, inhaling the perfume of absolute ripeness
With a sharp knife carefully slice each in half to remove the stone
Occasionally revealing another plum party guest
A bright pink wiggling larvae called Grapholita funebrana,
Discard these, unless you are aiming for extra protein
The crumble topping must be made with butter, wholemeal flour, dark muscovado sugar and cinnamon
Because that’s how my mother made it, that’s how it must be, there will be no discussion
Note: you will also need a mother who loves you, who makes excellent crumble
And who taught you to cook without you ever realising it
Place the fruit in a square earthenware dish bought from the little kitchen shop at the top of Park Street that isn’t there any more
Sprinkle over the crumble topping and cook at the right temperature until it’s cooked
Allow the warm sweet spicy smell to permeate your house, it smells of safety
Pull the dish out of the oven just as the crumble is on the right side of brown
Ruby red juices bubbling at the edges, a process technically known as ‘spleeging’
Summon your household
Sit and eat together
Best served with cream
Photo shows my real life plum tree, nibbled leaves and all. I had been pondering about what to write this week, and as plums have been a major feature, I got to thinking about those irritating recipe pages that tell half the author's life story before actually giving you any basic information about how to cook the damn thing. If you landed here looking for an actual recipe for crumble, I am truly sorry.

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